3 November 2023

 AZTR recap Part 3


The last part of my trip wasn't entirely uneventful, just not amusing. Greg and I kept riding after dark to get closer to Flagstaff, the next resupply which was still 100K away, and we wanted to get ahead enough to be able to reach it next evening. 

The Arizona trail was getting flatter, but unlike promised by many, not smoother. Lots of baby head sized rocks to ride over. Now I get it why everyone was so surprised I had a rigid bike. 

There was an email from John Schilling telling us of a forest fire closure on route . But with vague direction on how to handle it. Maybe it was open when we get there, maybe its ok do go through, might not be enforced, do what you feel like, basically. You can also use a detour, which route I had loaded.  

So Greg and I eventually come across a barrier which tells us there is a fire. No clear do not trespass wording. just certain rules on what not to do, cant recall what exactly,

So i consult with Greg and ask him how to proceed. He isn't sure, and I tell him I am kind of too tired to decide.  He says, "well, pretty sure no one is there to stop us to go through" So we go ahead and stay on course regardless of potential fire. 

At first everything seemed ok, just a slight smell of woodsmoke. However the closed off section was much larger than expected. Now I see burning tree stumps left and right, smoke is getting thicker. I am getting real tired and sleeping here isn't an option. 

I am getting to a rough downhill and Greg is gone ahead of me. Smoke is thick and the trail isn't visible to me anymore. So I need to rely on my GPS track to see where I need to go, which is not detailed. Just then my garmin crashes.  

Now I am starting to panic a little and begin to think this was a bad idea. Its past midnight,  I am lost deep in a burning pine tree forest, 100K of to a town in any direction, and I am tired. 

Luckily me garmin comes back to life, I start to see some trail markers, and I am getting out to a paved road.  Greg waits there and says : "that was kind of spooky. all those fires around us."

He decides to ride on, I am so done and ride half a mile off route to a ranger station, where I find an open "Montana Hilton" (fully enclosed, clean washroom) and sleep in there, protected from the subzero temps at night




The next day starts cold but sun eventually warms things up. Flagstaff is within reach but the trail is still rough and unrideable  half the time. I talk to a through hiker, and he says hikers who use trailrunners, light hiking shoes, last about 100 miles before they are wrecked.  

I realize its still a long way to the Utah border. I would have to cancel my flight, skip teaching another class on thursday. Also I would need to buy hiking poles and warmer clothing in Flagstaff.  So I decide its not worth finishing. The only person this finish matters to, is me. Unless I would want to brag about it, there is no need of going through with it.  Plus with all the dot watchers on the sidelines, I feel increasingly like a Pond play piece on a game I don't want to be in. Some impossible wipeout race where people expect you to be catapulted into a mud pit. 

So decision made,  am scratching. No need to prove anything or impress anyone. Deeply exhausted bruised, hurting. It was fun until now. A young thru hiker couple get my water, who are thankful since they almost run out, and I am taking the road to flagstaff, with a strong tailwind blowing me there.




Next day I drive to the south rim to see the grand canyon. Its spectacular. But very busy and I am happy not to look like a dork carrying my bike around on the back through the crowds. 

Phillipe sends me an email, saying his water bladder froze solid for four hours hiking through there, and he ruined a family's vacation by occupying their toilet for a long time due to bowel distress.







I did enjoy the road trip from Flagstaff through Sedona, above some pictures of the Oak tree canyon north of Sedona

Some final words on the self support rules and the cavalier approach a lot of racers seem to have.

While film crews and support crews are ruining this event style, not be able to accept a random meal offered seems against the human social instinct.

And I wont point fingers, but I know of enough instances during this race were participants completely exhausted and heatstroked where nursed back to life by bystanders reaching out.

As well as the no motorized transport rule. Hitch-hiking into town, getting taxis to get bikes fixed etc. all happens. 

I am not judging or saying people should disqualify themselves. but its interesting that its happening. Too much pressure to finish. 










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